Archive for

April, 2009

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High Noon at the Gravel Spit II

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High Noon the the Gravel Spit II

High Noon the the Gravel Spit II (9 x 12) SOLD

This is the same basic painting as yesterday writ larger. The method and pigments are the same, except that I didn’t do any direct painting on this one. I didn’t think any further definition of the boys was necessary.

I like it, but I think this one looks more like an ordinary crowd. I think the smaller numbers in the first painting focused the eye on the interactions between the young men. That part of the drama gets lost in a crowd.

This painting has sold, but you may still purchase a print at Fine Art America.com.

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High Noon at the Gravel Spit I

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High Noon at the Gravel Spit (8 x 10) $100

High Noon at the Gravel Spit (8 x 10) SOLD

Under the West Salem bridge there is a little sand bar, really a gravel bar. At any given time on the weekend there are likely to be three or four families there and at least one father teaching his son to skip stones. It is an ideal place for skipping stones into the river. It’s a good place for wadding toddlers too.

But looking down from the bridge a couple weeks ago I saw a very different scene. Five or six young men roamed the sandbar, jostling against one another and skipping stones from first one side than the other. There was no real violence, but the boys radiated suppressed anger and extreme restlessness.

Reference IIThis painting is a composite of figures from several of the photos I took of the restless young men. I arranged them to keep the feeling of tension I felt looking down at them from the bridge.

Reference I

The painting is almost entirely poured. The first pour was hansa yellow light, quinacridone deep red rose, and phthalo blue. In the next pour I substituted new gamboge for the hansa yellow and added quincaridone magenta. The third pour I used just the two reds and phthalo blue. For the fourth pour I used quincaridone magenta, dioxzine purple, and phthalo blue.

After the fourth pour I washed the boy’s jeans with phthalo blue and added dioxzine purple and phthalo blue wet into wet into the shadows on their shirts. The little dots are dioxzine purple splattered off the brush.

I think I captured the tension and the pours produced beautiful colors. I’m going to paint a larger more complex version of this painting tomorrow. I like the colors and will probably use them again.

This painting has sold, but I have run a limited edition of fifty giclee prints on archival rag paper.  Signed and numbered prints are $50.00 each.


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Highway Cathedral I: Or Fun With Granulation

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Highway Cathedral I (9 x 11) $50

Highway Cathedral I (9 x 11) $50

I doubt it’s original of me, but I’ve always loved the shapes of bridges from below. From above the bridge connecting connecting Salem and West Salem is a dull and even ugly highway from which you can see only tantalizing glimpses of the Willamette River below. But from underneath it’s all about arches, windows, and water.

To get the feel of the concrete, I used mostly naturally granulating pigments: cerulean blue, French ultra marine blue, burnt sienna, and yellow ochre. The only pigments without natural granulation I used were cobalt blue and phthalo blue which I used to the darken the shadows on the underside of the highway.

For the foreground I mixed burnt sienna and French ultramarine blue with granulation medium to accentuate the textural effect. Next time I may add ox gall to the water pigments to smooth them out for contrast.

This was a fun little painting. I’ll do a few more under the bridge paintings over the next few weeks.


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Glossary

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This is a list of terms used in this blog, not a comprehensive list of watercolor terminology.

backwash: Water or wet paint added to a damp or even less wet area of paper will move into the the damp area leaving a lighter ring and a hard edge. This is know as a backwash. Although often a mistake, backwashes can also be used as a positive technique.

body paint: See Gouache.

bleeding: Pigments and water travel from high density areas to low density areas. Thus a damp area of one pigment will bleed into a wetter neighboring pigment.

canvas: Tightly woven linen or cotton primed for paint. Usually displayed stretched over lathe or board.

cold-pressed paper: Watercolor paper comes in three basic finishes, rough, cold-pressed, and hot pressed. Cold-pressed is a medium textured paper good for most purposes.

direct painting: Applying paint by traditional methods such as brush, sponge and knife. (compare pouring)

dropping in: Adding wet paint of one color to damp or wet paint already on the paper.

dry brush: Squeezing most of the paint out of a brush and applying the brush lightly to the paper so that the texture of the paper is revealed.

gallery wrapped: A finishing method for canvass. The canvas is folded neatly around the edges stretcher bars and stapled or nailed in back rather than on the sides. The painting either continues around the canvas covering the sides of the stretchers bars or the side are painted a neutral color. The painting can then be hung with or without a frame.

gouache: Water soluble opaque paint. Unlike watercolors which are lightened with water gauche is lightened with white gouache. Gouache is sometimes used over watercolors for emphasis or to reclaim the whites.

granulation: The tendency of courser pigments to separate and settle into the indentations of the the paper, producing a mottled or textured appearance.

granulation medium: An additive used to increase or enhance the granulatiion of pigments.

hot-pressed paper: Watercolor paper comes in three basic finishes, rough, cold-pressed, and hot pressed. Hot pressed paper is the smoothest. Paint lifts easily from hot pressed paper but hard lines form more easily at the edges of washes and paint strokes.

layering: Laying down multiple layers of transparent color so that each layer shows through. Used to create glowing or lively solids colors.

lifting: Removing paint from the paper by first wetting it and then soaking up the liquid with a dry brush, towel or sponge. Used to correct mistakes and also to create highlights. Some colors lift very easily making it difficult to lay washes over them. Other colors are practically impossible to lift at all.

liquid mask: A latex, rubber or other liquid used to protect the paper from paint during the painting process.

lost edge: Visually the edge of one object my blur into the another object or into the background. Reproduction of this effect by painting or drawing is called a lost edge. Like shadows, lost edges help anchor objects to the page and make them feel more real and less like they were pasted on the background.

mask: Paper, tape, or liquid placed over the paper to protect it from paint during the painting process.

ox gall: A paint additive used to increase the flow of paint to facilitate smooth washes and minimize hard lines.

plein air: Painting outside on location or a painting created by painting outside on location.

pouring: To pour paint over the the paper from a cup rather than to apply the paint with brushes. The technique is often used in conjunction with masking.

poured painting: A painting in which masking and pouring techniques predominate.

rough paper: Watercolor paper comes in three basic finishes, rough, cold-pressed, and hot pressed. Obviously rough is the most textured of the three. It is often used for landscapes and rustic buildings where the texture is an advantage.

salting: Sprinkling salt over wet paint to create texture. The texture is caused by the salt granules pushing the water and hence the pigments away.

sgrufutto: Scraping the paint off the paper to reveal lower layers of paint or white paper. This technique is usually used for fine detail. A sharp edge works best when the paper is dry and usually shows the white paper. A credit card edge or a palette knife can be used to remove wet upper layers of paint.

sizing: A paper coating which prevents the paper from absorbing paint like a blotter. Almost all paper including copier paper is sized. Over painting and lifting can damage the sizing causing that portion of the paper to react differently to paint.

staining pigments: Pigments which do not easily lift easily (or at all) from the paper after they have dried. Staining pigments make good under-washes because subsequent layers of paint are unlikely to disturb them.

under-painting: A monotone painting in a dark staining color intended to show through subsequent layers of paint. This is a good way to create rich believable shadows and rounded forms.

wash: An even layer of paint laid over a large surface.

wet on dry: Applying wet paint to dry paper. The technique results in distinct edges and is good for detail work.

wet on wet: Applying wet paint to damp paper. This technique results in soft edges with no distinct lines or detail.

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Windswept

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Windswept (8 x 10) $100

Windswept (8 x 10) $100

This is Paula with the wind spilling her hair from it’s braid.

I took the creative approach to color with this one. But I think I caught the feeling of her cold wind-burned face. I like the feeling of movement in her face too.

The main colors are dioxzine purple, alizarin crimson, and yellow ochre. I used these colors for her skin after laying down a wash of deep red rose and cadmium yellow. I washed her eye sockets with cerulean blue. Her hair is entirely yellow ochre and dioxzine purple (the two make a lovely cool browns and beiges). Her eyes are cobalt blue and yellow ochre. Her shirt is cobalt blue and her jacket cobalt blue and dioxzine purple. The sky is cobalt blue and ultramarine blue.

I found this painting a relief to paint after the last two. Almost life size portraits are fun. Distant figures are fun too. But I have difficulty getting a two or three inch face right–it’s putting in the right amount of detail that gives me fits–that and that an eight of an inch mistake changes the face enormously.


Or Purchase at print from Fine Art America.com.

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Sneakers II

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Paula and her sneakers again.

This time I panted her directly without pouring. I used a very limited palette: burnt sienna, cobalt blue and yellow ochre. I also washed her face with cadmium yellow and winsor red. There is tad of alizarin crimson on her lips and the shaded side of her face.

I prefer this painting but my husband prefers the poured version. I did a better job with her face here. But I agree with Stephen that the colors are livelier in the poured painting. It’s tempting to do a third version, but I think I”ll stop here.

Purchase a print of this painting at Fine Art America.com.

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Sneakers I: More Pouring

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Sneakers I (11 x 17) $125

Sneakers I (11 x 17) $100

This is my youngest daughter in a characteristic pose. I love the way she has clasped her hands in tight but spread her legs out with her feet pidgin toed.

I poured all of this painting except for her hands and feet and an under painting of the carpet. I painted her hands and feet first, and then masked them to protect them from the pour. I left the under-painting of the carpet pattern unmasked.

face and hand

face and hand

[caption id="attachment_211" align="aligncenter" width="60" caption="carpet underpainting"]carpet underpainting[/caption]

I masked and poured three times. When the mask came off: I adjusted the values, added shadows and shoe details; and touched up her face.

first pour

first pour

[caption id="attachment_213" align="aligncenter" width="59" caption="second pour"]second pour[/caption]
mask removed

mask off

I used Winsor red, alizarin crimson, and cadmium yellow for her face and hands. I used hansa yellow medium, burnt sienna and phthalo blue for the first pour. I substituted raw sienna for hansa yellow in the second and third pours. I direct painted with the pouring palette.

What would I do differently? Well I like this painting a lot as is. I would mask the hands and face before painting them and paint them after the pour next time. I think I would also leave the sunshine streaks across the carpet out.

I like the painting enough that I’m going to do it again without pouring.


Or purchase a reproduction of this painting at Fine Art America.com.

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The Counter-Weight Part IIA: A Pouring Demonstration

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After the last of the viable mask has been removed, I wet the paper generously to remove the last remnants of the of the mask. This is a necessary step because unless the masked area has been washed, it will take paint unevenly or not at all.

Then I laid in the sky. This time I went for blue (cerulean blue, and French Ultramarine).

With Sky

With Sky

From here on out it’s all detail. I used a mixture of French ultramarine and Windsor red for all of the brush work. I varied the temperature of the mixture to match the surrounding pour image and to cool shadowed areas. I mostly left the poured passages alone.

The Counter-Weight (11 x 14) ($100)

The Counter-Weight (11 x 14) ($75)


What would I do differently? Well, the current composition is unobjectionable but it lacks excitement. The early painting had movement and especially depth that this one lacks. I may go back to the bridge with sketchbook and camera in hand, but not today.

Here are some other examples of paintings I have made using the multiple mask and pour method:

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Counter-Weight IA: A Pouring Demonstration

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Pouring is one of my favorite techniques. It literally means to pour paint across the paper. It can either be the atmospheric beginning to a painting or a major part of the painting process. Some people use it to create abstract shapes to suggest the painting subject. But however much pouring is used, it provides transparent color passages that can be gotten in almost no other way.

The method I use most frequently was popularized by Jean Grastorf in her book Pouring Light: Layering Transparent Watercolor. Her technique uses multiple masks in much the same way batik uses multiple wax resists.

When I first began painting I used her pouring and masking method as an aide to help me paint with contrast, because it forced me to divide my picture into five distinct tonal values or less. It also helped me loosen up about color. These days I pour only when I think the subject of the picture will be enhanced by pouring.

Sunday I photographed just such a picture, one of the counter weights to a local railway drawbridge recently converted to a pedestrian bridge. The silhouetted subject is perfect for pouring.

Working Photo

Working Photo

After one false start detailed in the previous two posts I had a drawing of the bridge I liked. I began the painting by transferring it to a block of Arches 140 cold-pressed paper. (Because removing mask is hard on paper I always use the more durable 140 weight cold-pressed paper when pouring.) My photo of the bridge has loads of minute detail. In my cartoon I simplified. I want the silhouette of the bridge tower and counterweight to predominate. Too much detail would take away from the graphic nature of the image.

After making the cartoon I taped off the edges of the painting and began masking the sky plus everything I’d like to remain white. The trick to masking is to use nylon brushes and to soap the brushes frequently. This keeps the mask from gumming up the brushes and saves your quality brushes from rack and ruin.

Once the mask was dry, I mixed three cups of very thin paint: cadmium yellow, phthalo blue, and Windsor red. I deliberately choose staining colors, because mask lifts pigments. Then I wet the paper (an important step as otherwise the paint tends to run off the paper without staining) and poured the yellow straight across the top of the tower. I tilted the paper right to let the paint run off and wiped up the excess. Then I poured the red just below the yellow, tipped the paper, and cleaned the excess again. Some of the red bled into the yellow making orange. Then I poured the blue the same way across the counter-weight adding a dull purple where the paint crossed the red paint I had just poured.

After the First Pour

After the First Pour

When the paint had dried completely, I masked all of my lightest values and poured slightly thicker paint over the paper in roughly the same places. After the paint dried I masked the medium values and repeated the process with milk-thick paint. When the final pour had dried, I pulled the mask off, revealing a bold but rough painting in vivid color.

After the Mask Came Off

After the Mask Came Off

It’s all brush work from here.

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Anatomy of a Disasater II

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The Disaster

The Disaster

There were a number of problems with my first attempt at the “Counter Weight” painting. All most all of them had to do with composition. Three major compositional problems. First the support panel half way up the draw bridge tower brings the eye to a full stop. Second, the girders connecting to the tower lead the eye out the the picture. Third, the dark girder on the left hand side want to be the center of interest.

In addition to the my composition problems, I used French Ultramarine in my final pour. It covered everything underneath causing dead patches in the painting.

Playing with the values did not help. I went from bad to worse. Where I attempted to removed the French Ultramarine I got mud. Darkening the background only made it look dirty.

So, I began again at the very beginning, with a value sketch. This time I moved in above the support panel, centering interest on the counter-weight. I eliminated the girders from my drawing. I’m sure the bridge would fall down without them, but my painting won’t. And I won’t lose the feeling of looking up into that great big counter-weight hanging over your head.

Then I began again. In a few minutes I will post Counter-Weight IA: A Pouring Demonstration. Since I have finished the painting to my satisfaction, I know there will be Counter Weight II: A Pouring Demonstration.

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Anatomy of a Painting Disaster: Part I

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A couple days ago I began pouring demonstration. It was cheeky of me to post the first half of the demonstration before for the painting was finished. I got bit too. I thought about deleting this demonstration entry, but there is too much to learn from mistakes to do that. Instead I will rename it and recast it a hair:

The problem began with the composition itself. Here is the photograph I began with:

Working Photo

Working Photo

I began by making a line drawing of the bridge and transferring it to watercolor paper. What I should have done first was made a preliminary value sketch.

Cartoon For Painting

Cartoon For Painting

Then I became beguiled by the lovely colors produced by pouring it.

After the First Pour

After the First Pour

After the Second Pour

After the Second Pour

After the Mask Came Off

After the Mask Came Off

There were beautiful colors there after the pouring was done, but the darks were much to heavy. Lightening the darkes only muddied them. And the compositional flaws became more apparent as I worked. In the end I gave up in disgust.

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The First Quilt

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The First Quilt (11 x 14) $125

The First Quilt (11 x 14) $125

This is my daughter busily piecing her first quilt–so busy she let me walk around a taking photographs without bothering to complain. I liked the light coming in from window seat hidden off to our right and the look of intense concentration on her face.

I began this painting at the gallery yesterday, but I came home unhappy with where it was going. The basic shapes were right, but the fabric had stolen the center of interest.

Since the fabric moves the eye in into the picture from the left and her face hands and arms form a circular path, recomposing the picture was mostly a matter of toning down and removing everything else. I simplified the quilt fabric, which was brighter and patterned and removed an embroidered medallion from her shirt. I also removed the book shelves from behind her. I toned down the bright white of the sewing machine which had threatened to steal attention from her face and hands.

When I was finished, too much of the painting appeared to be of medium value; so I darkened up her hair to provide contrast for her face. That made all the difference.

Pigment Notes: I used cadmium yellow, alizarin crimson, and burnt sienna for her face and hands. An under-painting of phthalo blue defines the darks in her hair. I washed burn sienna over it. The table is also phthalo blue and burnt sienna. Her shirt is burn sienna and cobalt blue plus a little alizarin crimson. The lilac quilt squares are the same combination, but with more alizarin crimson. I used phthalo blue, burnt sienna and touch of cadmium yellow for the green squares. French ultramarine washes define the sewing machine. I used French ultramarine and burnt sienna for her jeans. The walls are burn sienna with a touch of phthalo blue.

This painting is currently on display at Art in the Valley, Corvallis, Oregon but may still be purchased by mail on inquiry.
Or purchase a reproduction here.

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Hat and Shoulders

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Hat and Shoulders (9 x 12) $100

Hat and Shoulders (9 x 12) $100

For this watercolor I worked from a candid snapshot of my niece taken a couple summers ago. She wore the hat everywhere we went. I don’t have many pictures of her in it though, because that was the summer she was camera shy.

I had fits getting this painting right. I tried it and failed twice on Tuesday.

Two problems. First, I love the effect of the strong light on her hat and shoulder, but the light on her face is very low contrast and the color temperature varies enormously. Getting the subtle value changes and temperature changes in her face was difficult. Second she doesn’t have much pink in her face under neutral light, but her blouse bounced purple pink light up into her face.

Both of my Tuesday paintings contained too much pink and exaggerated the temperature and value changes in an unflattering way—she looked like Rudolph of Red Nosed Reindeer. All of my favorite skin reds for light complexions reds (alizarin crimson, rose madder, and quinacirdone) stain so her red nose was there to stay.

Rudolph

Rudolph

I took Wednesday off to think and painted something else instead. I began again Wednesday after dinner, resolving to keep my palette limited and to introduce value and temperature changes slowly. I began with a unifying wash of cadmium yellow and cadmium red. Then I laid in the pinker skin with cadmium yellow and alizarin crimson wet into wet. I added the blue tones to the ailizarin mixture rather under-laying it. I used the alizarin crimson with cobalt blue for her blouse to unify the reds. The result was still a little too much, so I washed burnt sienna over her skin. That helped tone it down a little more.

I think she’s much improved although still not as pretty as the real girl.


Or Purchase a quality reproduction of this painting here.

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The Red Shirt

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The Red Shirt (12 x 16) $100

The Red Shirt (12 x 16) SOLD

I’ve read that it’s advisable to place the horizon low when painting the sea to avoid making the waves look like a wall at the top of the painting. It’s a rule I violate frequently.

When I walk along the beach I am drawn to the leading edge of the ocean. Looking out from the edge of the waves the sea does feel like a wall above me. And the breakers rise many feet above sea level. In winter they they tower over the beach.

Standing in front of all that raw power I am awed that something so elemental is also so beautiful. My eyes follow the waves. I rarely scan the horizon.

I want to catch that feeling of being small and looking up into the waves, so when I place people right on the edge of the beach I often place the horizon high, or as in this case eliminate it altogether.

Pigment Notes: The water is phthalo blue, cobalt blue, French ultramarine, all dulled by burnt sienna and raw sienna. The beach is multiple washes, some salted, of burn sienna, raw sienna, and burnt umber mixed with a a hair of cobalt blue. Winsor red and cadmium yellow for the boy’s skin. Quinacridone gold, raw sienna and burnt umber for his hair. Winsor red and raw sienna for the shirt. French ultramarine and cobalt blue for his pants.

This painting has sold, but you my purchase a reproduction of it at Fine Art America.com.
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Purchase

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Because I do not have to pay a commission here, the prices of paintings listed in this blog will be substantially less than those of the same paintings listed in other web venues or real world galleries. Prices include shipping within the continental United States. Unless otherwise noted all paintings are watercolor on paper and are shipped in a tube without mat or frame. Very small paintings may be shipped flat.

To pay with paypal or credit card use the buy now button on the blog entry. To pay by check, drop me a line at jennyarmitage@dancingfeatherstudio.com or in the comment box under the painting’s entry.

I can also be reached at:

370 Salem Heights Ave. S.
Salem, Oregon 97302

503-363-4711

Reproductions of my work may be purchased through Fine Art America:

Art Prints

And RedBubble:

See also my real world galleries and shows.

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Beginning with a Child

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Blue Eyed Duckling (8 x 10) $175

Blue Eyed Duckling (8 x 10) $100

It seems a good omen to begin my painting blog with a portrait of a child–particularly since she is a child who wants to be an artist. She is beautiful and funny looking by turns. But I have no doubt she will be beautiful in the end. Her cheek bones say it all.

I did this painting Friday at Art in Valley (Corvallis, Oregon) a cooperative gallery of which I am a member. Painting while working at the gallery is fun but tricky. The comments of patrons are fun. Making sure I can stop at any moment without wrecking the painting is difficult. So is working as neat as the gallery environment requires.

But this young girl has such a distinctive expressive face that the painting just fell together. Another good omen for a beginning blog.

I find I use more pigments for skin than I ever would have believed possible. Her skin is cadmium yellow and madder red on the sunlit side and cadmium yellow and alizarin crimson on the shadowed side. Cobalt blue helps define her eye sockets. The edges of her shadowed cheeks have a hint of yellow ocher. There are hints of burnt sienna at the hairline. Her hair is yellow ocher, burnt sienna, and more cadmium yellow.

The blues and blue grays are mixed from the skin and hair palette. Mixing the background from the main palette often leads to good lively grays that set off the subject. I think it worked this time too.

Like most of the paintings I will add to this blog, The Blue Eyed Duckling is for sale. Prices posted on this blog will be lower than those for my paintings elsewhere on the web because I do not have to pay a commission here.


or

Purchase a reproduction of this painting here.

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